Departments, Dining, Uncategorized

Delicious Dish

Summer Sensations

Must-have dining experiences

By Sharon Levinsohn

Chefs who push the envelope, who pride themselves on sourcing extraordinary ingredients and creating extremely creative dishes, have inspired awe in true foodies. The two chefs and their restaurants profiled in this issue, have distinguished themselves and engendered loyal followings. Although one restaurant is cozy, intimate and free-standing, and one is larger and based in a new hotel, both are serving up memorable meals and helping to make wonderful experiences for diners.

EOS

Viceroy Miami at Icon Brickell; 485 Brickell Avenue ;Miami; 305.503.0373; eosatviceroy.com

THE DETAILS

The new kid on the block is a knock-out, thanks to an extraordinarily talented Manhattan duo who chose the Viceroy Miami for their first venture outside of Gotham. Eos—which is the Greek word for “new dawn”— is symbolic for new beginnings. This posh spot is the creation of awardwinning star chef Michael Psilakis and star restaurateur, Donatella Arpaia. After taking Manhattan by storm, Psilakis and Arpaia brought their combo of fantastic food, stylish design and attentive service to the chic, new hotel (which opened in February of 2009). Eos’ eclectic Mediterranean menu, which is centered around small plates, is perfect for the climate (and for sharing amongst friends).

This spirited new restaurant— which debuted in April of 2009—is situated on the fifteenth floor of the Viceroy at Icon Brickell, an impressive three-tower complex which is an outstanding addition to Miami’s downtown business district. Make sure to take a walk around the fifteenth floor after your meal — the views are inspiring!

THE TEAM

Chef Michael Psilakis and restaurateur Donatella Arpaia are an extremely successful culinary duo with impressive pedigrees. These long-time friends and business partners have made their mark in Manhattan, where they own Anthos (upscale Greek); Kefi (casual Greek); Mia Dona (chic, upscale, casual Italian); and Gus & Gabriel (a gastro-pub).

Psilakis grew up cooking in his native Long Island, New York and credits his Mom for much of his culinary inspiration. After earning his BBA in finance and accounting, he gravitated toward the restaurant industry. He quickly made his mark and now boasts an impressive CV and a string of successful ventures. Psilakis was named “Best New Chef” by Food & Wine in 2008, “Chef of the Year” by Bon Appetit in 2008, and “Best New Chef” by Esquire in 2007. Anthos was also awarded the prestigious “Michelin Star” and is one of only two Greek restaurants in the world to hold this honor.

Arpaia is an attorney-turnedrestaurateur, who has also distinguished herself in this competitive industry. Her restaurant venture, Davidburke & Donatella, launched her into the culinary spotlight in Manhattan. She went on to partner with Psilakis and open their first restaurant, Dona, which earned raves from the media. (They had to close it when the building was eventually sold.) Their other restaurants in Manhattan have all been definitive hits with both diners and the press. Arpaia has also been featured on many television programs, including The Today Show, Bravo’s Top Chef, and the Food Network’s Iron Chef America. Arpaia has also been profiled as the thirty-first “Most Powerful Woman” in Manhattan by The New York Post and was one of “40 Under 40” by Crain’s New York Business.

THE SETTING

Sitting pretty on floor fifteen of the Viceroy, Eos is home to a dramatic interior which was designed by Kelly Wearstler. This bold-faced designer has married exotic and classical form and function for some startling results. She dressed this incredibly creative venue with vibrant hues that really pop. This means banquettes and a variety of chairs and design elements in bright yellow, orange, coral and violet. The soaring white ceilings, white walls and white rectangular columns, provide the perfect counterpoints to all of the smashing color choices. Oversized sculptural chandeliers, floor tiles of black marquina stone, and a sleek, 27-foot bar (topped with white, pink and yellow Brescia pontifica marble) are noteworthy accents. Floor-to-ceiling windows along part of the exterior of the restaurant provide a view of the Eos terrace, where you can also dine throughout the day and the evening.

THE CUISINE

Since Psilakis is a passionate chef who is revered for his modern take on Greek cuisine—and sourcing the freshest and finest ingredients—the Mediterranean features prominently in his menu, with notable items from Morocco, Spain, Portugal and France. Even if you are not a fan of the raw stuff, trust me and indulge in the offerings at Eos. Start with a few plates of sushi and sashimi—they are all divine, thanks to expert sourcing and excellent execution. I adored the scallop sashimi with basil seed and lemon puree; the yellowtail sashimi with fennel, spices and cantaloupe; the tuna sashimi with watermelon and feta cheese; and the niaragi (striped marlin) sashimi with pistachio and apricot. They all seem to melt in the mouth! After the sashimi, select a ceviche or two—these are also refreshing and bracing. The black grouper ceviche, with mango, chipotle, cumin and cilantro, and the Beau Soleil oyster version, with tomatillo, Peruvian chilis, and plums, both pack a powerful punch.

Psilakis’ menu has a section of terrific vegetable and cheese offerings and you should definitely opt for the burrata—a dreamy, creamy cheese dish, for two—which is served with a selection of local fruit, fennel and red onions with a tasty balsamic drizzle. The hand-made pastas are also taste sensations. Psilakis’ Sheep’s Milk Gnudi is a feather-light ricotta dumpling, served with English peas and manouri cheese. This transcendent dish is a showstopper. It is easy to see why Bon Appetit named his Gnudi “Dish of the Year” in 2007. The lobster and sea urchin risotto, accompanied by caviar, fried herbs and an egg yolk, and the Greek paella, which is served with prawns, merguez (a thin, spicy sausage) and orzo, are both scrumptious.

Other luxe entrees include the Grilled Loup de Mere, which is a boneless whole fish prepared simply, so that the fish really shines; the smoked pork ribs, which are dusted with dried chili, coffee and lime; the smoked escolar, served with goat’s milk yogurt and American sturgeon caviar; and the grilled flatiron steak, which is served with bone marrow and a traditional garlic feta sauce.

Because every meal should have a sweet ending, desserts are a must. The Florida citrus salad, which is served with Pernod sorbet and the Essencia of Chocolate, is a nice balance for the finale.

THE LIBATIONS

There is a full bar here, so any drink you desire can be created. Talented Sommelier, Sergio Caceres, will be happy to pair the perfect drink with any dish. As for wines, the innovative list contains about 50 bottles, with about 12 by the glass that have a decidedly Mediterranean accent. (The list will be expanded to about 100 labels within the year.) There are also plenty of cocktails, which have been created by Ryan Magarian (one of the country’s top mixologists). The yummy house specialty drinks are made with fresh squeezed juices, along with fresh local herbs and veggies. The Eos Especial made with Atlantico rum, housemade clover-honey syrup, freshly squeezed lime and grapefruit juices, and Angostura Bitters is a winner.

THE EXTRAS

Eos serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Charming General Manager Matthew Gardiner, leads a gifted staff who make sure that your dining experience is memorable. For a true getaway, book one of the Viceroy’s deluxe rooms or suites (there are 162, with partial or full kitchens). V

Dolce de Palma                                                                                                                                                                                                         1000 Old Okeechobee Road; West Palm Beach; 561.833.6460; dolcedepalma.com

THE DETAILS

Dolce de Palma is proof positive that looks can be deceiving. This fabulous restaurant is situated in an extremely unassuming spot, in an industrial area, close to downtown West Palm Beach. This quirky location, next to the railroad tracks—just south of the Kravis Center off of Parker Avenue—is only part of the establishment’s charm. Kudos to Chef/Owner Anthony de Palma, whose desire to bring a touch of culinary sophistication and big-city verve to the area should be applauded. de Palma has lovingly transformed this space, which used to be home to a service station (the bathrooms are still on the outside), into an incredibly popular destination. Locals and visitors have been raving about his inventive take on Italian food with definitive Asian influences, since he opened the restaurant in May of 2008.

THE CHEFS

Anthony de Palma is a gifted and passionate chef and restaurateur—a self-described foodie—who was inspired by a variety of family members throughout his childhood in a Boston suburb. A dedicated and enthusiastic chef, de Palma is also a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute in Essex, Vermont. After graduating, he went on to apprentice at Antico Ristorante La Sibilla in Tivoli, Italy, and he has also worked in a number of distinguished restaurants in America, including Union Square Cafe in New York; La Bettola, Icaras and Museum of Fine Arts, in Boston; and Rialto in Cambridge, Massachusetts. de Palma’s long-time friend, Rene Michelena, is also his Chef de Cuisine. This incredibly talented chef has also garnered critical acclaim from the press, including being named one of Food & Wine magazine’s “Top 10 New Chefs in America” in 1998. His A-list resume includes positions at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago and Las Vegas; Patina in Los Angeles; Sign of the Dove in New York; and La Bettola, Saint and Domani Bar & Trattoria in Boston.

Michelena, who grew up in the Phillipines and Chicago, is a graduate of the culinary program at Kendall College in Evanston, Illinois. de Palma and Michelena bring over thirty- five years of culinary experience to this superb restaurant.

THE SETTING

Dolce de Palma boasts an exterior with orange stucco walls, serving as the backdrop for their patio—which is filled with tables—and is covered by a burgundy awning that is accented with delicate white lights. The intimate interior is mod yet comfortable, with black leather banquettes (with striped throw pillows) and black wooden chairs surrounding the tables (formica, by day, dressed with white cloths, at night) and creamy ceramic tile floors. The textured walls are painted in hues of burgundy, olive green and cream, and are the perfect background for the changing array of paintings and prints by local artists. The open galley kitchen is home to de Palma, Michelena and their talented crew, who continually create mouthwatering dishes for their loyal cadre of diners.

THE CUISINE

de Palma describes his dynamic menu as glorified peasant-style cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, seasonal ingredients and house-made specialties. With fifty-five seats—both inside and out—he can afford to adhere to his wonderful farm-totable philosophy, which includes hand-picked veggies from local purveyors, gifts of the sea from local fisherman, and house-made pastas, baked goods, sauces, spice blends and stocks. The sublime Mediterranean-inspired fare, created by de Palma, Michelena and company, is always evolving. While there are some menu staples, every menu is augmented by whatever is fresh each day. What a concept!

The Caesar salad is a clever and tasty deconstructed version, with whole Romaine leaves and a dressing in two parts—a creamy base (which is drizzled nicely on the leaves) and a soft-boiled, five-minute egg, which you can break (so that it runs all over the plate). This yummy dish is served with shaved red onions, focaccia crouton, and San Tumas cheese. Other sterling starters include the crispy grilled Margherita flat bread, comprised of house-made mozzarella, marinara sauce and fresh basil; the Pioggia di Antipasti (comprised of Genoa salami, spicy copa—ground pork shoulder—haricot vert, house-made mozzarella, grilled eggplant, marinated mushrooms, ovendried tomatoes and toasted peppers); and the Dolce salad, comprised of watercress, frisee and lupini beans in a perfect balsamic vinaigrette.

Pastas—which come in half- and full portions—are a must. I am addicted to the house-made tomato fettuccini, which is served with yummy langoustines, scallops, arugula, oven-dried tomatoes, and oregano butter. The porcini Bolognese is a winning twist on a soul-satisfying favorite, comprised of house-ground beef and cinghiale (wild boar), porcini mushrooms and San Marzano tomatoes, with conchiglie pasta (conch shells). The Chef’s Pasta Whim of the Night is always a special treat—order it without asking for a description!

The entrees at Dolce de Palma are always enticing. If lobster makes you smile, opt for their Lobster Roast. This divine dish allows the expertly cooked lobster to shine. This dish is served in a light, red pepper miso broth, along with bok choy, leeks, Vidalia onions, corn and fennel. Some other highlights include the crispy duck breast, which is served with cipollini (onions), red watercress and carrot-pineapple sambal. Or try the sliced ahi tuna, which is served with a Mediterranean salad of feta cheese, hummus, cucumbers and grapefruit; and the braised balsamic-ginger short ribs, which are served with broccolini.

The dessert offerings are punctuated by a stellar selection of house-made gelati and sorbetti. (And it’s no wonder—before opening this restaurant, de Palma ran a gelateria in North Palm Beach.) Select a trio of your favorites from a rotating selection of lemon sorbetto, chocolate gelato, passion fruit sorbeto, pistachio gelato, blood orange sorbeto, and banana-strawberry-coconut gelato. You can also find a nice selection of cookies, pastries and other sweet treats, such as the apple-mango crostada (which is served with cinnamon gelato) and the pineapple upside-down cake.

THE LIBATIONS

Charming Manager Jessica Bailey has created a thoughtful wine list with approximately 40 offerings (by the bottle) from noteworthy vineyards that produce small quantities. The list has a definitive Italian influence, but there are also plenty of wines from California, Argentina and Germany. There are about 10 wines by the glass, and a selection of hand-picked beers.

THE EXTRAS

Everyone is friendly and attentive here, which adds to the excellent dining experience. The professional staffers have been mentioned in plenty of restaurant reviews—yes, the press has been kind to Dolce de Palma. The restaurant was named “Best New Restaurant” of 2008, by The Palm Beach Post. The Boston Globe and the South Florida Sun-Sentinel have also praised this eatery. Dolce de Palma serves lunch Monday through Friday, and dinner Wednesday through Saturday. Reservations are suggested. V