Dining

In Good Taste

IN GOOD TASTE

Luxury dining in Florida’s fine resorts

By Sharon Levinsohn

The luxe life has never been so sweet, especially in Florida. There are a myriad of wonderful upscale restaurants that provide transcendent dining experiences. From extraordinary food to impeccable service, the chefs and staffers at these restaurants pride themselves on perfecting every detail. The two outstanding restaurants profiled here will both soothe your soul and palate.

Scarpetta
The Fontainebleau; 4441 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305.674.4660; scarpettannyc.com

THE DETAILS
Scarpetta is a glamorous new restaurant situated in the Sorrento tower of the newly renovated Fontainebleau Miami Beach. The swank hotel emerged from an impressive billion dollar makeover in November of 2008, and now features many enticing new eateries. This Manhattan outpost is garnering raves for phenomenal Italian food, expert service and a sophisticated ambiance. Residents and visitors, alike, are thrilled that celebrated Chef Scott Conant has chosen Miami for Scarpetta’s second location—his Gotham spot is located in the Meatpacking District and has also earned glowing reviews (including three stars from The New York Times and New York Magazine).

THE CHEF
Chef/Owner Scott Conant is a culinary star. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, he has been cooking for a grateful cadre of diners for over 20 years. He distinguished himself at two fabulous Italian restaurants in Manhattan, L’Impero and Alta, before opening his first Scarpetta there in May of 2008. He is a culinary master of Italian cooking with a twist. It is no surprise that GQ magazine’s food critic, Alan Richman, wrote that “Conant is probably second only to Mario Batali as New York’s favorite Italian chef…”

THE SETTING
This chic, sexy restaurant was designed by noted London-based interior designer, David Collins. He chose a classy nautical theme and employed several shades of blue with plenty of gleaming brass and dark wooden accents. There are mirrored brass porthole windows, oversized columns (dressed with mirrors and dark wood), coiled white rope accents, wooden floors and subtle lighting (courtesy of a mixture of creative fixtures including antique chandeliers). Comfy banquettes and dark wooden chairs are upholstered with a blue and white twig-patterned fabric and interior tables feature an attractive pale blue in-laid surface. A wraparound veranda framed with sheer white curtains offers a quieter place to savor the exceptional food. There is also a lounge at the front of the restaurant, with an attractive mosaictiled bar, low-slung marble-topped tables and cozy seating areas.

THE CUISINE
Chef Scott is passionate about cooking and is dedicated to using superb ingredients (with an emphasis on locally sourced items) for some outstanding results. His dishes are sublime thanks to his extraordinary talent which ensures that each meal here is special. Chef de Cusine, Michael Pirolo, is also an expert at executing Chef Scott’s vision. Even the bread basket is noteworthy (the focaccia and Stromboli reign) along an the accompanying trio of citrus herb-infused EVOO, mascarpone butter and eggplant caponata. Start your meal with the raw Yellowtail which is served sashimistyle along with ginger oil and a Chef Scott is passionate about cooking and is dedicated to using superb ingredients (with an emphasis on locally sourced items) for some outstanding results. His dishes are sublime thanks to his extraordinary talent which ensures that each meal here is special. Chef de Cusine, Michael Pirolo, is also an expert at executing Chef Scott’s vision. Even the bread basket is noteworthy (the focaccia and Stromboli reign) along an the accompanying trio of citrus herb-infused EVOO, mascarpone butter and eggplant caponata. Start your meal with the raw Yellowtail which is served sashimi-style along with ginger oil and a prinkling of Hawaiian sea salt; the Tuna Susci, a creative take on a cut roll with slices of raw tuna, marinated veggies and preserved truffles; or the Mozzarella in Carrozza, which features two slices which are breaded with Panko bread crumbs, lightly fried and served atop a sea of stewed baby tomatoes. The Creamy Polenta is a truly decadent (and delicious) signature starter, which is comprised of plenty of cream, milk, Parmesan and butter (along with the requisite corn meal) which is served with truffled mushrooms. Much has been written about Chef Scott’s signature spaghetti—with good reason—this legendary dish is a must. The house-made pasta (all of the pastas at Scarpetta are created by a gifted pasta chef) has the perfect texture to absorb just the right amount of the gentle sauce of Roma tomatoes, EVOO and fresh basil. To say that this is the perfect pasta dish is putting it mildly—it is better than that. Subtle, simple and superb win the race every time. You should also indulge in the Duck and Foie Gras Ravioli, another award-winning treat; the Agnolotti dal Plin (minidumplings filled with veal, chicken and pork); and the Pappardelle, which is served with a short rib ragu and chestnuts. Other standouts include the Mediterranean Branzino ‘Acqua Pazza’ (crazy water in Italian), which features perfectly broiled sea bass that is served in a delicate shellfish broth along with couscous, veggies and pieces of lobster; the Bistecca di Manzo, a boneless rib-eye, served with roasted veggies, preserved truffles and Parmigiano; and the Black Cod, a braised version served with concentrated tomatoes and roasted fennel. If you are feeling adventurous, order the Moist-Roasted Capretto—the baby goat—which is served with roasted potatoes, pancetta and broccoli rabe. Chef Scott and Chef Alan Kwan (the corporate toque for Scarpetta) also created a splendid dessert menu. You will be extremely spoiled by the Pistacchio Cannoli, mini-treats stuffed with orange mousse and served with balsamic macerated strawberries; the Coconut Panna Cotta, which features caramelized pineapple that is served in a guava “soup” along with a pineapple sorbet; and the Amadei Chocolate Cake, a supreme molten delight—made from this popular chocolate from Tuscany—which is served with burnt orange-caramel gelato and an espresso sauce.

THE LIBATIONS
Talented sommelier, George Hock, presides over an impressive wine list (created along with Dave Mokha, the Wine Director of the Fontainbleau Miami Beach) that boasts approximately 375 wines. The majority of the offerings are from 20 regions in Italy, with a from Spain. There are also about 25 fine wines by the glass, along with a full bar and an inventive cocktail menu. Their signature drink is The San Remo, which is comprised of Carpano, Antica (an artisanal vermouth), Campari, Maker’s Mark bourbon, St. Germain (elderberry liqueur) and fresh lemon and lime juice. Hock is happy to pair the perfect libation with each course, including rare wines such as Mirabile Viognier, a superb white wine from Sicily (there are only 150 cases produced each year) and Moschioni Real Rosso, a red biodynamic wine from Frioli, which is only bottled in Magnums.

Luxury dining in Florida’s fine resorts BY SHARON LEVINSOHN

The Dining Room; Little Palm Island Resort & Spa; 28500 Overseas Highway, Little Torch Key; 305.872.2551; littlepalmisland.com

THE DETAILS
The Dining Room at the revered Little Palm Island Resort & Spa is an incredibly enticing and romantic spot, situated in a unique destination. This beautiful five-and-a-half acre island in the Atlantic Ocean, about three miles off of Little Torch Key, is home to this wonderful resort which definitely corners the market on casual elegance. This relaxed, yet decidedly upscale slice of paradise features 30 suites housed in thatched hut bungalows, tropical gardens and over 250 palm trees, plenty of white sandy beaches that ring the island, a heated freeform swimming pool, a marina and several docks of varying sizes, an inviting spa (SpaTerre) and scrumptious cuisine provided by The Dining Room. You can dine in the restaurant—with plenty of indoor and outdoor options—or have your meals delivered to your guest suite. Thankfully, The Dining Room at Little Palm Island is open to the public and is reachable only by boat or yacht, sea plane, or via the resort’s launches (which go back and forth between the shore station and the island throughout the day and the evening).

THE SETTING
The Dining Room at Little Palm Island features an interior design with pale wooden and bamboo ceilings, whirring fans, lacquered wooden floors, an oversized chandelier and nicely spaced tables surrounded by wooden chairs with green cushions and seat backs with carved pineapples. All of the tables are dressed with white linen cloths, silverware with a scallop shell motif, fuchsia orchids and glass and metal pineapple-shaped hurricane lamps. One wooden wall is covered with framed black and white photographs from when the much-loved movie, “PT 109,” which was filmed on the island in 1962 (when it was a fishing village). Colorful tropical paintings as well as oversized mounted fish adorn this relaxing space. Olive green, window- paned French doors open up onto one of the seductive weathered teak porches, which provide lovely views of the water. You can also opt for a table right on the beach—a setting so romantic it feels as if it were plucked from a movie—with tiki torches and candles, or you can dine in your suite or on your yacht. Wherever you choose to eat, you will be treated to Executive Chef Luis Puis’ (pronounced Pose) delicious take on Floribbean cuisine. A host of local musicians and singers enhance each dinner with a mix of Sinatra- Martin-Bennett standards and jazzy tunes.

THE CHEF
Chef Luis is an amiable fellow and a genuine culinary star, who is passionate about creating memorable island fare. He joined Little Palm Island in 2006 and has distinguished himself by creating ribbean-French dishes that are punctuated by fresh Florida Keys fish (including the yummy stone crabs and lobsters caught right off of the island), fruit and herbs grown on the island (such as Key limes, naturally) and locally sourced ingredients. Born and raised in Cuba, Chef Luis was trained at the Sergio Perez Government School of the Culinary Arts in Havana. He landed his first Executive Chef gig at the Chateau Miramar, a prestigious boutique hotel in Havana. After moving to the United States in 1997, he also cooked at the Big Fish Restaurant on the Miami River, the Hotel Plaza Athenee in New York, the Turnberry Island Resort and Club in Miami and the Beau Rivage Resort and Casino in Biloxi, Mississippi (where he was responsible for seven restaurants).

THE CUISINE
As you peruse the menus (which change daily) you can savor the warm offerings from the bread basket. Every meal features a terrific selection of house-made offerings, such as cornbread squares with jalapeno, foccaccia, parsley and chive biscuits, poppy seed rolls, and raisin bread. The selection of chilled items from the Raw Bar is top-drawer. You should definitely order the stone crab claws, which are served with a yummy coconut-mustard sauce, and the half-Maine lobster (served in the shell). There are numerous standout appetizers on the menu including the towering spinach and arugula salad with a bell pepper vinaigrette (all dressings are made in-house); the frothy coconut lobster bisque (with lime sour cream and chives); and the bracing ceviche (which also changes daily) of grouper, mahi mahi, tuna or shrimp, topped with yucca crisps. There are also a multitude of mouthwatering entrees, thanks to the gifted Chef Luis and the talented Executive Sous Chef, Rafael Perez, including the Maine Lobster, which is steamed and served out of the shell with a hash of sweet corn, apples, fennel, onions and black truffle oil. I would also recommend the Australian Wagyu Beef, which is a grilled sirloin that is served with tostones (fried plantains) and a truffled chimichurri. Why not indulge in the Guava BBQ Glazed Black Grouper, served with Key lime mashed potatoes and a tomato salsa, or the Pork Duo, which is comprised of tenderloin and pork belly, served with plantains, hash of corn, black beans and onions, along with a mustard sauce? Or try the Grilled Swordfish, which is served with crispy chorizo and a vegetable escabeche (marinated with vinegar and citrus) with a mild parsley sauce. The desserts here, like the entrees, are beautifully plated and a treat for both the eyes and the taste buds. A must on this menu: the Key lime pie, a dreamy choice, featuring a cashew crust and a topped with fresh vanilla whipped cream. Or partake in the flourless chocolate cake, which is served with zabaglione and garnished with micro greens and a few scoops of sorbet and ice cream (I could become addicted to the banana flavor). But for a truly exquisite dessert experience, try the array of soufflés and crème brulee that change daily.

THE LIBATIONS
The drink of choice on this paradise escape is surely The Gumby Slumber, which was created by a long-time bartender who loved to sleep late. Now the island’s signature welcome drink, guests are treated to this cocktail, gratis, when you arrive at the Shore Station before you depart for the island. The Gumby Slumber is comprised of Captain Morgan’s Parrot Bay Coconut Rum, Captain Morgan’s Spiced Rum, pineapple, orange and cranberry juice, and coconut flakes. In addition to this refreshing beverage, you can choose from an inviting cocktail menu (watermelon mojitos anyone?). There is an impressive wine list with over 300 vintages from all over the globe, along with approximately 25 wines by the glass, as well as seven to eight Champagnes. A full bar menu is also available.

THE EXTRAS
The Dining Room serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. There is also an outdoor lounge, named The Monkey Hut, which is filled with red brass monkey lamps, whirring paddle fans, and wicker furniture topped with plenty of red and white cushions, as well as a fire pit on the beach surrounded by cozy seating areas. The Dining Room and the resort have earned numerous accolades and awards from the media and industry publications, including Mobil, AAA, the Zagat Survey, Travel & Leisure and Florida Trend. The restaurant and the resort are filled with a superior team of staffers led by Managing Director Matt Trahan. Kudos go to Mr. Trahanalong with The Dining Room General Manager Kevin Geanides, Maitre D’ Brenda Stetler, and Assistant Manager Randa Ruppert. The island is also populated by some extra special guests—Key deer—who swim over from nearby Big Pine Key each day. These beautiful animals enjoy eating the flowers off of the tables in the dining room, on the porch and on the beach. The staff is adept at wrangling the deer and keeping them away from your table. So, please resist the urge to feed these gentle creatures. In fact, the gracious staffers at this resort ensure that every need is met and every wish is fulfilled—if only life could mirror Little Palm Island!